The ABCs of AHAs

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are often touted by dermatologists and skin gurus as being a beneficial addition to a skincare regimen, but they can also be confusing if you don't know what to look for. To help quell the mystery of AHAs, here is a guide to the basics:

What do AHAs do?

AHAs give you healthier, smoother and more radiant skin, by helping your aging skin keep up with it's cellular renewal. Why is this important? As a child, your skin creates new cells, which move up through the dermis to the surface where they die and slough of in a 28 day cycle.  But as we age, this process slows down and it takes longer for our skin to break down the intracellular glue holding the dead skin on to the epidermis.  This results in an uneven complexion, clogged pores, and dry, patchy skin (as the speed of renewal is not necessarily consistent across the face).  AHAs work on the surface of the skin to help loosen the intracellular glue and allows dead skin cells to come off.  But don't worry, this process is not painful and will not do any damage to healthy skin cells.  I've heard the process by described by a skincare traininer (Pat Clare, Neostrata - funniest.trainings.ever) who likens the process to a lint remover---it takes lint off of your clothes without ruining the actual garment.  It just takes away what isn't supposed to be there. Now if only it worked on love handles.

What kind of AHA is best?

There are a 5 naturally-occurring types of AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and citric acid.  Both lactic and glycolic acid have pH levels that are closest to our skin, making them ideal.  However, glycolic acid is more beneficial as it is a smaller molecule, meaning that it can be absorbed into the skin faster and easier (less work for your skin =  advantageous, allowing your skin to focus on other acitivities such as fighting off free radicals and UV rays).

Who can use AHAs?

Almost any skin type can benefit from using AHAs, with the exception of extremely sensitive skin (think rosacea or skin intolerant to active ingredients). Someone with dry skin tend to need the extra help getting rid of the additional dead cells at the skin's surface, while oilier skins need to make sure that there is not any dead skin that might be blocking the pores and preventing the removal of oil and dirt from the skin which causes blemishes.

It's also great for people who don't have time to do a physical scrub once or twice a week---this way you get your exfoliation built right into your moisturizer!  One less thing to do in the morning means a little bit more *beauty sleep*, and potentially less dark circles under those eyes....

What should I look for in a glycolic moisturizer?

It's not enough that a cream lists glycolic acid on the list of ingredients, it must be there with the criteria.  At a minimum, your skin needs a 4% glycolic acid in order to keep up with the cellular renewal process (sloughing off dead skin and bringing newer skin to the surface). If you are a sensitive skin, dry or have never used a glycolic cream before, 4% if a good starting point. If your skin is fairly tolerant, you may be able to start with an 8% glycolic, and move on from there.  10% glycolic acid is the highest percentage that you can get over the counter, and is most beneficial for a thicker, oily skin. 

Not sure what percentage is right for you? Talk to a Beauty Boutique Expert to determine which level is right for you and take home some samples to try out at home.

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Recommended brands: Neostrata (large selection for any age and skintype), Reversa (Canadian line, oil-free), Dermaglow (peel solution, daily moisturizer), La Roche Posay (Derm AHA peel)