The ABCs of AHAs

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are often touted by dermatologists and skin gurus as being a beneficial addition to a skincare regimen, but they can also be confusing if you don't know what to look for. To help quell the mystery of AHAs, here is a guide to the basics:

What do AHAs do?

AHAs give you healthier, smoother and more radiant skin, by helping your aging skin keep up with it's cellular renewal. Why is this important? As a child, your skin creates new cells, which move up through the dermis to the surface where they die and slough of in a 28 day cycle.  But as we age, this process slows down and it takes longer for our skin to break down the intracellular glue holding the dead skin on to the epidermis.  This results in an uneven complexion, clogged pores, and dry, patchy skin (as the speed of renewal is not necessarily consistent across the face).  AHAs work on the surface of the skin to help loosen the intracellular glue and allows dead skin cells to come off.  But don't worry, this process is not painful and will not do any damage to healthy skin cells.  I've heard the process by described by a skincare traininer (Pat Clare, Neostrata - funniest.trainings.ever) who likens the process to a lint remover---it takes lint off of your clothes without ruining the actual garment.  It just takes away what isn't supposed to be there. Now if only it worked on love handles.

What kind of AHA is best?

There are a 5 naturally-occurring types of AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and citric acid.  Both lactic and glycolic acid have pH levels that are closest to our skin, making them ideal.  However, glycolic acid is more beneficial as it is a smaller molecule, meaning that it can be absorbed into the skin faster and easier (less work for your skin =  advantageous, allowing your skin to focus on other acitivities such as fighting off free radicals and UV rays).

Who can use AHAs?

Almost any skin type can benefit from using AHAs, with the exception of extremely sensitive skin (think rosacea or skin intolerant to active ingredients). Someone with dry skin tend to need the extra help getting rid of the additional dead cells at the skin's surface, while oilier skins need to make sure that there is not any dead skin that might be blocking the pores and preventing the removal of oil and dirt from the skin which causes blemishes.

It's also great for people who don't have time to do a physical scrub once or twice a week---this way you get your exfoliation built right into your moisturizer!  One less thing to do in the morning means a little bit more *beauty sleep*, and potentially less dark circles under those eyes....

What should I look for in a glycolic moisturizer?

It's not enough that a cream lists glycolic acid on the list of ingredients, it must be there with the criteria.  At a minimum, your skin needs a 4% glycolic acid in order to keep up with the cellular renewal process (sloughing off dead skin and bringing newer skin to the surface). If you are a sensitive skin, dry or have never used a glycolic cream before, 4% if a good starting point. If your skin is fairly tolerant, you may be able to start with an 8% glycolic, and move on from there.  10% glycolic acid is the highest percentage that you can get over the counter, and is most beneficial for a thicker, oily skin. 

Not sure what percentage is right for you? Talk to a Beauty Boutique Expert to determine which level is right for you and take home some samples to try out at home.

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Recommended brands: Neostrata (large selection for any age and skintype), Reversa (Canadian line, oil-free), Dermaglow (peel solution, daily moisturizer), La Roche Posay (Derm AHA peel)

This Just In!

With the *Holiday* season just around the corner, there are new products and gift sets showing up everyday in the Boutique!  Here are just a few of them:

• Benefit's POWda WOWza: this limited edition powder set contains three of Benefit's top selling face powders along with a powder brush: Coralista (a pretty golden coral blush), Bella Bambi (cool pink blush) and Hoola (neutral bronzer).  This set is only available at Christmas and changes every year!

• Pur Minerals Liquid Metal Eyeshadow Sticks: Metallic eyeshadows are a hot trend for this fall and holiday season and Pur Mineral's makes it easy to incorporate with your look using their eyeshadow sticks!  These sticks are long-wearing, smudge-proof and water resistant, but are easy to blend.  The set contains four metallic hues: True Cobalt (navy blue), Iced Bronze (deep brown with glitter), Steel Envy (dark green) and Midnight Chrome (black with glitter).

• Bourjois Smoky Eye Kit: smokey eyes are a staple that come with the cooler weather, and Bourjois has assembled a kit containing all of the must-haves to get the look! This kit includes three full-sized products: Volume Glamour Masara in black, Smoky Eyeliner in black and Smoky Eyes eyeshadow trio.

• Quo by Orly Nail Enamel: Quo has launched a line of nail polishes, brought to you by Orly!  These high-quality polishes come in a variety of shades, from soft pinks to bright blues, and everything inbetween!  These polishes will be regular items, with limited edition collections launching throughout the year.

• Biotherm Skin Vivo Uniformity: The newest member of the Biotherm Skin Vivo family is Skin Vivo Uniformity. While wrinkles and loss of firmness can age your skin, so can an uneven appearance and texture.  Skin Vivo Uniformity focuses on fighting five irregularities of tone and texture, while also protecting your skin from harmful UV rays (it contains an SPF 20).  Noticeable results include: evening out of dark spots, a reduction in redness, smoother texutre, a more even skintone and restored elasticity.  So not only does this cream smell like baby powder, it will leave your skin feeling just as soft and fresh!

Fall Favourites

Fall is here, and these are some of the newest products to arrive in the Beauty Boutique that are sure to be a hit:

• Essie Carry On Collection - fall colours are all over these soft nudes and neutral greens and oranges

• Benefit's They're Real mascara - love BadGal lash but wished you had a little more length and definition? You're sure to get it with They're Real! For the ultimate in volume and length, you can layer BadGal with They're Real.

• La Roche Posay Derm AHA - help your skin adjust to the cooler fall weather with LRP's new Derm AHA resurfacing serum! This dry serum will brighten your complexion and help fade winkles.

• CK Shock - the newest member of the Calvin Klein fragrance family, CK One Shock...Available in men's and women's scents, CK One Shock for Her has a floral first impression (with top notes of passion flower, pink peony and jeweled poppy flower) but then softens up with chocolate, vanilla and patchouli notes, while the men's scent is more spicy then it's sister (black pepper, basil and musk are some of the deep notes with clementine, cucumber and Red Bull (?!) as top notes). A Beauty Boutique exclusive!

• Lise Watier Natural Glow Kit- are you sad at the prospect of losing your summer glow? With the days getting shorter, there's less sunlight around to keep your bronzed look. Solution? Lise Watier's Natural Glow kit! This fabulous set comes with three full-sized products: Eye Shine eyeliner in Fauvre, Rouges Gourmand Biscotti (a beautiful nude-pink) and Natural Glow blush (how appropriate!).  Also included, a mini loose-powder mineral eyeshadow in Folie Douce (a golden brown). 

• Stila Stay All Day Liquid Eyeliner - personally, this is an all-year favourite, but with the winged liner being a hot trend for the fall, this liquid liner is unmatched! Whether you're liquid liner virgin or a longtime pro, this liner makes it simple--use the felt tip straight on for a fine line or angle it sideways for a more dramatic line.  The staying power and ease of use make this a must have!